Our last night in Big Bend Ranch State Park was nice though
uneventful. We hit the road about 8 or 9
and decided to head Big Bend National Park on our way to our way to Padre
Island since we were almost there anyway and it would not take much extra
time. On our way through Rachel
mentioned this hot spring in the park and said that she would want to come back
through at some point to see it. That
coupled with what a woman we met told me about a basin in the park that is a
must see, we decided we could afford one more night since we will probably not
be back for a long time.
After we got the camper set-up, we went to find the hot
springs, almost 30 miles from camp. When
we got there, we discovered that it was a resort of sorts around the 30s and/or
40s. On our way to the hot springs, we
saw these copper wire and beadwork animals that looked kind of cool with a
small paper sign listing prices. I
supposed they were from someone across the Rio Grande who set out their wares
and wound collect their items and money at some point in the day. Anyway, we continued to hike down to the hot
spring and eventually found it sat with our feet in it for about 10 minutes and
as we were packing it up, we saw a border crossing. I assumed it was the same guy as set out his
wares up the trail a bit and when we got back there, we saw the money was gone
and a few new items were out. We picked
up (and paid for) a few items we liked and hiked out. On our way out I noticed a small plaque
pointing out some 3-4,000 year old cliff drawings.
Small road into the hot springs
Rio Grande River and Mexico
The water was like warm bath water
Pictures from the hot spring
Items sitting out to be sold
They are wire desert creatures and a jar for payment
More Rio Grande River and Mexico
Cliff drawings
That really narrow road again
Pictures of the mountains
After we were done at the hot springs we drove up to the
____Basin. It was a few thousand feet
above the hot springs and took nearly an hour to get to but it was worth the
trip. At the springs it was closing in
on 90 while in the basin, it was a very pleasant 75. We had a beer, hung out for a few hours on
their patio and then ate at their restaurant.
I have to admit that I was a little self-conscious because we had not
had a chance to shower for two days but we did it anyway counting on the fact
that we would never see anyone again. I
had an elk chili while Rachel had a salmon burger. I enjoyed mine more than Rachel enjoyed her
meal but both were as good as you would find in the Skyland restaurant, in
fact, we are both pretty sure they were both designed by the same person.
The Basin
That night we stayed at the quietest and darkest campground
we have ever stayed at. The state park
was secluded and we were the only people, aside from the Mexican ranchers we
saw across the river rounding up their horses, but aside from the walkway
lights they left on at the visitor center about 7 miles away, there were no
absolutely no lights, moon, stars or people in the 20 square miles around
us. In addition, I think I could have
heard a pin drop from miles away. There
were no crickets or even a breeze to rustle the scrub brush. It was so dark and quiet that I understand
now why Superman has his fortress of solitude in the artic. I have never that experienced that uncanny
feeling of solitude and probably never will again.
Sunrise at the campground
The next day we drove toward Padre Island and stopped at a
few places along the way, the most notable being Judge Bean’s courthouse and
salon. He apparently dispensed harsh
justice around 1900. His most
interesting quote went something like, it has been very peaceful for a long
time because a man has not been shot in 4 hours. A VERY different time… The other notable event was that we passed
through two border patrol checkpoints where they had a dog sniff our car,
presumably for drugs, and then spoke to a border agent similar to the way we
would at customs. We saw more border
patrol officers in southern Texas than police but the checkpoint was a unique
experience and enough to make you just a smidge nervous for some unknown
reason.
Reservoir we passed by
That night we stayed at Garner State Park. After dinner we were talking to our neighbor
and after the third time he complained about the ranger placing us next to him
when half the camp was empty, we got the hit and moved. He was real polite about it but the message
was clear. I found out it is not hard to
move camp when you are on wheels. It
took me about 10 minutes to break down enough to tow and we towed the camper
popped up which drew a few odd looks from other campers.
Rachel complained a few times last night about it being
difficult after so short a time to readjust to being around people but we are
easing back into the real world so it should not be that bad. Aside from a few screaming kids, the camp was
nice and even though it was annoying, I don’t begrudge those parents who made
the effort to get their kids out there and help them to appreciate the outdoors
without electronics. Both Rachel and I
have noticed that all over the US, many kids are addicted to electronics and it
makes us wonder what parks will look like in a generation or two. I assume there will not be any more dead
spots like we spent the past three days in but will they look like what we saw
at the lodge where there was a patio full of patrons ignoring amazing views and
favoring their tiny screens? I suppose
time will tell. I would like to see the
parks create a device free zone campaign where kids can learn to just exist and
know it is OK to not document where you are and what you are doing for a few
days. You can always catch up with the
world later…
Drove through and found the town name and sign interesting.
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