Friday, March 28, 2014

Big Bend National Park

Our last night in Big Bend Ranch State Park was nice though uneventful.  We hit the road about 8 or 9 and decided to head Big Bend National Park on our way to our way to Padre Island since we were almost there anyway and it would not take much extra time.  On our way through Rachel mentioned this hot spring in the park and said that she would want to come back through at some point to see it.  That coupled with what a woman we met told me about a basin in the park that is a must see, we decided we could afford one more night since we will probably not be back for a long time.  

After we got the camper set-up, we went to find the hot springs, almost 30 miles from camp.  When we got there, we discovered that it was a resort of sorts around the 30s and/or 40s.  On our way to the hot springs, we saw these copper wire and beadwork animals that looked kind of cool with a small paper sign listing prices.  I supposed they were from someone across the Rio Grande who set out their wares and wound collect their items and money at some point in the day.  Anyway, we continued to hike down to the hot spring and eventually found it sat with our feet in it for about 10 minutes and as we were packing it up, we saw a border crossing.  I assumed it was the same guy as set out his wares up the trail a bit and when we got back there, we saw the money was gone and a few new items were out.  We picked up (and paid for) a few items we liked and hiked out.  On our way out I noticed a small plaque pointing out some 3-4,000 year old cliff drawings.  



Small road into the hot springs



Rio Grande River and Mexico


The water was like warm bath water


Pictures from the hot spring




Items sitting out to be sold


They are wire desert creatures and a jar for payment


More Rio Grande River and Mexico



Cliff drawings



That really narrow road again

Pictures of the mountains


After we were done at the hot springs we drove up to the ____Basin.  It was a few thousand feet above the hot springs and took nearly an hour to get to but it was worth the trip.  At the springs it was closing in on 90 while in the basin, it was a very pleasant 75.  We had a beer, hung out for a few hours on their patio and then ate at their restaurant.  I have to admit that I was a little self-conscious because we had not had a chance to shower for two days but we did it anyway counting on the fact that we would never see anyone again.  I had an elk chili while Rachel had a salmon burger.  I enjoyed mine more than Rachel enjoyed her meal but both were as good as you would find in the Skyland restaurant, in fact, we are both pretty sure they were both designed by the same person.  

The Basin


That night we stayed at the quietest and darkest campground we have ever stayed at.  The state park was secluded and we were the only people, aside from the Mexican ranchers we saw across the river rounding up their horses, but aside from the walkway lights they left on at the visitor center about 7 miles away, there were no absolutely no lights, moon, stars or people in the 20 square miles around us.  In addition, I think I could have heard a pin drop from miles away.  There were no crickets or even a breeze to rustle the scrub brush.  It was so dark and quiet that I understand now why Superman has his fortress of solitude in the artic.  I have never that experienced that uncanny feeling of solitude and probably never will again.


Sunrise at the campground


The next day we drove toward Padre Island and stopped at a few places along the way, the most notable being Judge Bean’s courthouse and salon.  He apparently dispensed harsh justice around 1900.  His most interesting quote went something like, it has been very peaceful for a long time because a man has not been shot in 4 hours.  A VERY different time…  The other notable event was that we passed through two border patrol checkpoints where they had a dog sniff our car, presumably for drugs, and then spoke to a border agent similar to the way we would at customs.  We saw more border patrol officers in southern Texas than police but the checkpoint was a unique experience and enough to make you just a smidge nervous for some unknown reason.






Reservoir we passed by

That night we stayed at Garner State Park.  After dinner we were talking to our neighbor and after the third time he complained about the ranger placing us next to him when half the camp was empty, we got the hit and moved.  He was real polite about it but the message was clear.  I found out it is not hard to move camp when you are on wheels.  It took me about 10 minutes to break down enough to tow and we towed the camper popped up which drew a few odd looks from other campers.  



Rachel complained a few times last night about it being difficult after so short a time to readjust to being around people but we are easing back into the real world so it should not be that bad.  Aside from a few screaming kids, the camp was nice and even though it was annoying, I don’t begrudge those parents who made the effort to get their kids out there and help them to appreciate the outdoors without electronics.  Both Rachel and I have noticed that all over the US, many kids are addicted to electronics and it makes us wonder what parks will look like in a generation or two.  I assume there will not be any more dead spots like we spent the past three days in but will they look like what we saw at the lodge where there was a patio full of patrons ignoring amazing views and favoring their tiny screens?  I suppose time will tell.  I would like to see the parks create a device free zone campaign where kids can learn to just exist and know it is OK to not document where you are and what you are doing for a few days.  You can always catch up with the world later…

Drove through and found the town name and sign interesting.

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